“Why Charleston?!” I was asked more than once, seeing that I came from the west coast. Was it so obvious? I stared blankly, “Wouldn’t you visit San Francisco?”.
It was an odd question to me. Why wouldn’t I want to visit a city known for it’s Colonial and Civil War history? Not to mention the architectural beauties that seem to be an everyday neighborhood. Does someone actually live in that gorgeous house with the triple-decker rotunda? Can I just come over for coffee?
Or how about a stroll along a panoramic waterfront promenade? Gorgeous churches grace every corner of the city and the food? Amazing… and you’re looking at me like I’m crazy for wanting to visit here?!
Wait… I get it. You Charlestonians know how charming it is and don’t want a mass exodus from the west coast. Now I see! Well, buckle up Charleston: I love history, architecture, good food and all things charming. You just may have a new immigrant.
Maybe I’m a strange cat or just an old soul, but I have been intrigued by Charleston ever since I watched “Gone With the Wind” as a little girl. Rhett Butler dashed to the South’s defense, not to the Confederate front lines, but rather, blockade running in support of the cause. Charleston is a port town after all. Before and after the infamous “… frankly, my dear, I don’t give a damn.”, Rhett seemed unable to pull himself away from Charleston for very long, with or without Scarlett. His character was so different, bold, smart, manly and of course, handsome. Did I have a slight crush on this legendary character who knew exactly what he wanted and went for it? Sure, but he just made Charleston sound, well, so intriguing! If Rhett’s character roamed Charleston, maybe I should…
Many years later, I booked that trip. My coworker said, “Cristy, I think something is calling you there.” Being more of a metaphysical state of mind (judge away!), I agreed. I have been thinking about it for some time and decided to bring a good friend along for the ride. A girls trip to the south? Sign me up, buttercup!
Arriving early evening in Charleston, we eagerly dropped our bags and hit a rooftop bar called Market Pavilion walking distance from our hotel. What better way to immerse yourself in all things new than with a panoramic view of the city you are about to explore? It always seems to take a few days of vacation to fully recognize you are somewhere else and outside of your everyday routine. We kept asking ourselves as we sipped our cocktails, “Are we really here? It hasn’t sunk in yet!”.
After that much-needed cocktail post-flight, we headed to Snob, a nearby restaurant. We ponied up to the chef’s bar in the back where the action was and had a delicious meal that was worth the wait. After dinner, we decided to “walk it off” and strolled down the streets admiring the impressive neighborhoods peppered with gas lanterns.
Intrigued by our concierge’s recommendation, she suggested we grab an after-dinner drink at the Griffon, a local pub. It was definitely fun; the crowd was lively and the walls were littered with dollar bills. The bartender grinned and placed a box of colored pencils in front of us, “Come on girls, you have to add one to the wall!”. Giddy, we found a dollar immediately and went to work on our “contribution”.
What to say, what to say, on just one measly one dollar bill?! My friends, when seeking anything in life, there is only one person to consult: Joseph Campbell. You bet your bottom dollar (we did) that we used one of his quotes and if you’re a JC fan (not the holy family JC, folks), you probably already know which one it is and which one will fit on a dollar bill. I’ll give you a hint with the picture below (hard to see though!). Hopefully, you’ll find my bill if you’re ever at the Griffon! Anyhow, we had so much fun on only our first night in Charleston!
What better way to start your first “day” somewhere new than “gathering your bearings”? That’s what we did ahem, I mean, by shopping of course. King Street called! The main drag in Charleston is full of an assortment of shops, restaurants, and churches that will easily take an entire day, if not more. Wait, did you say churches? Yes, they’re everywhere in Charleston, seemingly in every faith, hence deemed the “Holy City”.
I particularly liked Skinny Dip where I bought pink tasseled shoes (again, judge away!). Worthwhile was an ultra chic and very unique boutique on King Street. I would say Worthwhile was just that. Amazing bags, jewelry, perfume, and a black leather bound “Joy of Cooking”?! Yes, as I said… worthwhile. Definitely peek into Hampden for exclusive and uncommon pieces. Purple faux fur coat? Yes, but I didn’t buy it. A girl just wants to fluff in front of the mirror once in a while… and let’s not forget the antique shops! An overwhelming treasure hunt to be sure.
After an active morning of shopping, you guessed it: lunch called. We happened upon Stella’s, a local Greek restaurant. Folks, we happened upon it serendipitously! Being a Greek restaurant, should I say the Gods looked down upon us favorably? Well, they did. Grilled octopus was excellent and the lamb meatballs were DIVINE. I couldn’t stop talking about it. I had to talk to the man behind the counter, who just happened to be Stella’s son, “Excuse me, sir? These meatballs are amazing; they’re the best I’ve had! I hope you know I am so inspired to write about this. I come from the San Francisco Bay Area and I think you’re food tastes like, like… I’m in Greece again!” I had to admit to him, I liked Stella’s better than Kokkari, the SF Greek anchor. Am I a traitor? No, excellent food is excellent food and Stella’s just may be my favorite restaurant in Charleston. I must admit, I was obsessed with the décor as well. I mean, black and orange Greek mythology wallpaper in the restroom? Zorba the Greek projecting while I eat? Ok, I agree I’m a dork when it comes to all things Greek; I’m pretty obsessed. Stella, you knocked it out of the park and you make eating lectin-free easy!
We had to hit up the historic Charleston City Market, hosting local goodies like baskets, jewelry, and many odds and ends. It was fun just to walk through and see the pop-up of goodies displayed.
On our way to dinner that night, we curiously checked out a local churchyard. Too old and too close to Halloween to not peek at dates and names. Yes, it’s an odd pastime right before you eat, but we were into it.
Husk was on the agenda for dinner. I had heard about Husk when Anthony Bourdain, unfortunately, left us. Shortly after he passed, many of his episodes aired, one being about Charleston. I remember it being late at night and I didn’t care. I stared at the boob tube, Anthony in Charleston with Bill Murray as a sidekick? Alright, I’ll stay up late for this. That’s how I found out about Husk. I was intrigued, as the chef seemed to resurrect old Civil War era recipes. I just had to see (and eat) it for myself. We lucked out and got a reservation and had just enough time for cocktails next door at Husk’s bar in an old brick building. I was charmed and excited to eat. Our reservation soon called and we had a fortuitous seat on the upstairs balcony. Dinner was as expected… marvelous.
You guessed it: after dinner drinks called. We were on vacation (*justifying*, in case you can’t tell) and definitely needed to walk off this large southern meal. Tempted to head back to Stella’s for dessert and wine, we instead opted to walk further down King Street and heard music playing (when I hear music, I follow. It’s just my Modus Operandi). We happened upon a lively place called Hall’s Chophouse, which turns out is a local institution; a favorite steakhouse, brunch spot, and late night hang out. Oh, did I mention people watching? This would be a place to grab a cocktail and strike up a conversation with a local or two. It definitely made for a memorable night.
Surprisingly, we felt fresh the next day and upon caffeinate-ing leisurely strolled around the neighborhoods surrounding the Battery promenade. Quaint streets boast stunning houses of every color and patina, lush gardens flourish in the humidity and private balconies overlook courtyards with elegant fountains, all which had me gripping at private gates wishing I lived there. Does anyone live here? It seemed not a soul graced these lovely secret gardens or elaborate porches. I can only speak for myself, but if I lived in one of these stunners, I’d be outside sunbathing and drinking rosé by the fountain, every day. Maybe that’s what makes me a California girl…
Gradually we made it to Charleston Harbor, passing by White Point Gardens and caught two lovers kissing in the center gazebo. Sigh, I can see a kiss being inspirational with a panoramic waterfront view surrounded by a park of shady oak trees. The promenade is nothing short of magical, with it’s proud architectural wonders looking on.
Only a short walk away, we stumbled upon the famous “Rainbow Row”; a collection of brightly colored homes that looked to me more like an architectural Easter pageant. As you walk along this neighborhood, some of the streets still have their original cobblestone and a famed Pineapple fountain is also nearby to see.
By this time our feet were getting really tired. In case you didn’t know, there is no need to rent a car while staying in downtown Charleston; everything is walking distance. However, I was ready to sit down, rest my feet and still take in more history. What better way than a narrated carriage ride around town?
Yes, it’s a bit touristy but well worth the ride. The history is so abundant in Charleston that it actually can be a bit overwhelming. A carriage ride is another way to get your bearings around town to either start your trip or as a nice way to break up all of the walkings, as we did. The tour took us through neighborhoods we didn’t yet see, which was an added bonus and also helped us to better understand Charleston’s background as a whole. It was enjoyable and by doing so, we spied a few other shops we missed along the way as well as a mysterious-looking Calhoun mansion offering tours. We looked at each other knowing we just added to our upcoming agenda.
A full day of tourism requires a mouthwatering meal ahead. We headed to Leon’s Oyster Shop, which was a total home run. I haven’t had oysters on the east coast that compare to the west, but shucks, Leon, you proved me wrong! You’re probably wondering how I stayed sane in the south eating lectin-free? Well, oysters turned out to be my best friend and I didn’t feel limited one bit. Leon’s was delicious, the service was excellent and the ambiance was relaxed and fun. I would say Leon’s was one of my favorite eateries by far. Just down the way, we hit up Little Jack’s for a cocktail and just one more after at the Belmont. I highly recommend the charcuterie with the lamb prosciutto! We called it a night after that, since we had another big day of history ahead of us and still lots to pack in.
Our last day in Charleston we simply had to go to Fort Sumter, no excuses! Probably the most noteworthy monument in the Holy City. Even if history is not your favorite subject, it’s a must-see. We opted for a rickshaw ride (yes, still weary from all the walking!) to the harbor to catch a ferry to see this sea fort that was so pivotal in the Civil War. In fact, the first shots were fired here. We lucked out in that it was a clear day and enjoyed standing outside during the ferry ride to take in the views of the Arthur Ravenel Jr. bridge along the Copper River. The field trip took about two hours and was well worth the time.
Lastly, we ended our day taking a tour of the Calhoun Mansion we spotted on our carriage ride. A grandiose estate brimming with antiques from all over the world. The tour is fascinating and only an hour or so of your time. Definitely worth a lookie-loo!
After a memorable trip, I do declare (am I sounding southern yet?) I was sad to leave. Charleston made quite the impression on me and I knew there were so many other things to still see, eat, and do! I can see why Margaret Mitchell’s dashing Rhett loved Charleston so; it is full of culture, grace, elegance and southern sophistication. Remember, Rhett did have the most “terrible reputation”, which just means this southern gem also offers just enough trouble to get into for the likes of someone seeking a little honest to goodness fun. Until we meet again, Charleston. As Scarlett would predictably say, “After all, tomorrow is another day!”
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